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The Table of Delights review at Print Room, London – ‘wholesome, witty entertainment’

Scene from The Table of Delights at the Print Room at the Coronet, London. Photo: Steve Tanner Scene from The Table of Delights at the Print Room at the Coronet, London. Photo: Steve Tanner

A gigantic dinner table is the stage in this show about food provenance. Chefs and waiters sashay on, round and under it, while the children sit at it and sample tasty morsels.

A shared concern about nurturing their young led to this collaboration between director Katy Carmichael and Claire Thomson, chef and author of family cookbook The Five O’Clock Apron, which makes a cheerful song and dance of a five-course tasting menu.

The courses celebrate representative food groups – bread, beetroot, spices, milk and honey – and performers in chef’s whites whip up a diverting spectacle for each comestible’s journey to the table as the audience gets stuck in. It’s a satisfying sensory experience: clouds of flour catch the light, the scent of cumin wafts on the air and honey ice cream appears as if by magic, while Queen Bee in an Amy Winehouse wig croons sweetly.

Les Bubb, as Maitre D’, holds the feast together. A gifted physical comedian, possessed of a fine singing voice and impressive agility, his sudden appearance under a giant dish cover is a startling but funny moment. His able accomplice on kitchen keyboard and guitar, Jack Drewry (Jammin Jack), creates mood music for each course, another essential ingredient in this toothsome theatrical feast.

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Verdict
Wholesome, witty entertainment that shows children where their food comes from
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